2 Review & complete
Cart is empty. Add items above.
TOTAL CASH
$0
TOTAL STORE CREDIT
$0
Say the store-credit total first — it's worth more to them and to us.
Buy log
| Date | Txn | Customer | Item | Cat | Qty | Comp/Rate | Paid | Type | Auth | Staff |
|---|
No buys logged yet. Completed buys show up here.
Activity log
| When | User | Action | Detail |
|---|
No activity yet. Actions appear here once you are signed in and synced.
Tier rates (% of adjusted comp)
The midpoint % paid for each tier. Edit and Save.
Condition factors
Comp the right condition first; the factor haircuts played singles against NM market.
Bulk rates (flat $ per unit)
Used in Bulk mode. Cash and credit are per single unit; line = quantity × rate.
Consignment splits
Each tier is the consignor's CASH share for items in that price range; the shop keeps the rest (and absorbs the Square fee). Store-credit payout = cash share + bonus points.
Rules & security
Before you pay — verify it's real
⚡ Golden rule: if it's graded, ALWAYS look up the cert number on the grader's own site and confirm the photo, grade, and card all match. A real-looking slab can hold a fake card AND a fake label.
When in doubt: slow down, offer consignment instead of a cash buy, or hold the item for owner review. It's always cheaper to pass than to eat a fake.
Authentication guides
Graded slabs (PSA · CGC · BGS · SGC)
- Verify the cert number first. Type it into the grader's site (buttons above). Confirm the card, grade, and the grader's photo all match what's in your hand. No match or no result = walk away.
- Label font & alignment. Real labels have crisp, evenly-kerned text and consistent centering. Fakes show fuzzy print, off spacing, wrong fonts, or misspellings.
- Hologram / security features. PSA's hologram and CGC/BGS security marks shift and stay sharp. Flat, blurry, or missing holos are a red flag.
- The case itself. Seams should be flush and factory-sealed with no glue lines, re-glue marks, or mismatched halves (a sign of a cracked-and-reholdered fake).
- Grade vs. what you can see. Obvious whitening, scratches, or off-centering on a "GEM MT 10" through the case = suspicious.
- Price too good. A high-grade grail priced well under market is the oldest bait there is.
Slab anatomy — the three zones to check
Add reference/fake-slab.jpg to show your own caught example hereRaw TCG singles (Pokémon grails)
- Light test. Hold to a bright light — real cards have a thin opaque black layer in the middle of the cardstock. Too much light through (or a totally different feel) is a quick screen for fakes.
- Rosette / print pattern. Under a loupe, real cards show a fine, even dot pattern. Fakes look blurry, pixelated, or have visible banding.
- Texture. Modern full-arts and many holos have raised texture. A card that should be textured but feels flat is a flag.
- Color & fonts. Compare to a known-real copy. Fakes run too dark/saturated or washed-out, with wrong HP/attack fonts and bad kerning.
- The back. Wrong blue (too purple), soft logo edges, or off-center swirl are common fake tells.
- Energy symbols & set/copyright line. Fakes get the shading, set symbol, and bottom copyright/collector number subtly wrong.
- Edges & cut. Glossy or peeling edges, layers separating, or a flimsy/too-thick feel.
Don't do the destructive "rip test" on anything you intend to resell. Use light + loupe + a known-real comparison instead.
See real examples ↗
Add reference/fake-pokemon.jpg to show your own caught example hereVideo game carts (NES · SNES · GB · GBA) ⚡ verifier
- Use the cart verifier. Our device confirms Game Boy and SNES carts read as authentic — run it and tick "Tested on cart verifier" on the buy. Still do the visual/screw check below for the rest.
- Security screws. Nintendo uses gamebit (NES/SNES) or tri-wing (GB/GBA) screws. A Phillips-head screw means it's been opened or is a repro shell.
- Open it & look at the board. Real PCBs have Nintendo markings and proper chips. A single black "glob-top" blob, an SD-card slot, or a generic board = reproduction.
- Label print. Authentic labels have fine offset-print dots, correct fonts, and the Official Nintendo Seal. Repros look too glossy, pixelated, or color-off.
- Molded text & part numbers. Back shell shows molded region/part numbers (DMG-, CGB-, AGB- prefixes). Confirm the prefix matches the system and the game.
- Weight & shell. Repros often feel lighter; check mold lines and plastic color against a known-real cart.
- Saves & batteries. Know which titles genuinely have a save battery (e.g., Pokémon GB/GBA) so a missing or extra battery board stands out.
Security screw types — Phillips = opened or fake
Add reference/fake-cart.jpg to show your own caught example hereSealed product & disc games
- Resealed wrap. Factory shrink is tight and thin with clean seams. Loose, thick, double-wrapped, or fingerprinted plastic and odd seams point to a reseal.
- Weighed / searched packs. Be wary of single loose packs at a premium — weight inconsistencies suggest searched-and-resealed. Treat loose vintage packs with extra caution.
- Boxes. Check flap glue, bottom seams, and batch/date codes; compare against a known case-fresh box.
- Pressed vs burned discs. A real pressed disc has a stamped inner-ring IFPI / mastering code. A burned CD-R has a colored dye layer (green/purple) and no IFPI = bootleg.
- Disc & manual print. Misaligned label art, inkjet-looking manuals, wrong ESRB/barcode, or generic discs are bootleg tells.
Disc inner ring — pressed has an IFPI code, burned doesn't
Add reference/fake-sealed.jpg to show your own caught example hereDrop your own photos into a folder named reference next to this file (fake-slab.jpg, fake-pokemon.jpg, fake-cart.jpg, fake-sealed.jpg) and they'll appear in each section automatically.
1 New consignment intake
Split · consignor / shop
— / —
Sell-by date
—
Consignor gets · Cash
$0
Consignor gets · Credit
$0
Payout is calculated when the item sells. Store credit pays more — point that out at intake.
Sign here with finger or stylus
Consignment log
| Date | ID | Consignor | Item | List | Split | Status | Sell-by | Payout | Actions |
|---|
No consignments yet. Log one above.
Welcome to the OKC Rips Buy Desk
This is the one tool for buying, trading, and consigning at the counter. It does the pricing math, keeps you consistent, helps you spot fakes, and logs everything. Work through the steps below — you'll be running buys in a few minutes.
⚡ The one rule to remember: always say the store-credit number first. It's worth more to the customer and to us.
Learn the flow
Your first buy — in 6 steps
- Pull the comp. Use the lookup buttons on New Buy — TCGplayer Market for singles, eBay Sold for graded/sealed, PriceCharting for games.
- Enter it. Type the comp into the box, then pick Category, Tier (how fast we resell it), and Condition.
- Authenticate. Check it against the Authenticate tab, run the cart verifier for Game Boy/SNES, and tick what you verified.
- Add to cart. Repeat for every item in their stack — singles or bulk.
- Read the totals. Two big boxes show total cash and total store credit. Say the store-credit total first.
- Complete. Tap Pay Cash or Store Credit, grab the customer's name/phone, done — it logs automatically.
Completing a consignment
- Open Consign and enter the consignor's name/phone, the item, and a list price.
- Show them the split. The app displays their cut and what they'll get (cash vs. credit). Print the agreement and have them sign.
- Log it, then list the item in Square (Export for Square) under the Consignment category.
- When it sells in Square, open Consign, find the item, tap Sold, and enter the final price.
- Pay them. Tap Pay Cash or Pay Credit — the app calculates exactly what they're owed and marks it Paid.
- If it doesn't sell by the sell-by date, tap Return or renegotiate a markdown.
The rules that matter
- Store credit first, always. It pays more for everyone.
- Verify before you pay. When in doubt, pass or offer consignment — never eat a fake.
- High-value items over the review threshold get owner sign-off before cash leaves the drawer.
- Don't change the rates. They live in Settings and are owner-only (PIN-locked).
- Log everything and back up before close. Use Export CSV or Backup on the Buy Log.
Glossary — learn the lingo
- Comp The current market value you base the offer on.
- TCGplayer Market The market price for a single card.
- PriceCharting The price guide for games — Loose, CIB (complete), or Sealed.
- Tier How fast we resell it: Fast, Standard, or Slow.
- NM / LP / MP / HP Near Mint, Lightly, Moderately, Heavily Played condition.
- Slab A graded card sealed in a case (PSA, CGC, BGS, SGC).
- Cert # The grading number you verify on the grader's website.
- Raw An ungraded card.
- Sealed Factory-sealed product — packs and boxes.
- Bulk Commons and lots priced at a flat rate.
- Consignment We sell their item and split the proceeds; they own it until it sells.
- Store credit Shop credit (a Square gift card) — pays more than cash.